What We Loved Outside Of The Obvious This SS25 Fashion Month

2024-06-24
What We Loved Outside Of The Obvious This SS25 Fashion Month

Trailblazing Trends: A Comprehensive Dive into the Captivating World of Men's Fashion Week

The recent Men's Fashion Week events across Europe have been nothing short of a sartorial spectacle, captivating fashion enthusiasts and industry insiders alike. From the streets of Paris to the runways of Milan, the world's leading menswear designers have showcased their visionary creations, redefining the boundaries of style and pushing the envelope of what it means to be fashionable. This comprehensive report delves into the key highlights, emerging trends, and the stories behind the collections that have left an indelible mark on the industry.

Elevating the Everyday: Innovative Designs that Blur the Lines Between Function and Fashion

Ten c: Redefining Utility with Cutting-Edge Fabrics

The brand Ten c, which stands for "The Emperor's New Clothes," has once again proven its prowess in blending functionality and style. For Spring/Summer 2025, designer Alessandro Pungetti drew inspiration from uniforms and their practical applications, resulting in reinterpretations of the iconic aviator flight suit. The collection showcased Ten c's signature material innovations, including water-repellent resin-coated linen and nylon-dyed gabardine with a metallic effect, seamlessly merging fashion and function.

Our Legacy: Capturing the Essence of a Seaside Fishing Village

Our Legacy, a brand beloved by fashion enthusiasts, continues to impress with its ever-evolving collections. For the "BLOOD KNOT" line, Creative Director Cristopher Nying drew inspiration from the captivating visuals of a seaside fishing village, resulting in wet-look garments and pre-wrinkled tops that cling to the body, evoking the feeling of stepping out of the water. Nying's references to boat engines and the close-knit community of the village have translated into a collection that celebrates the unexpected beauty found in utilitarian objects and the human experience.

Magliano: Challenging Conventions and Rewriting Sartorial Codes

Magliano's Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a bold exploration of contrasts, where function and dysfunction collided to create an easy-on-the-eye array of garments. From lace-up derbies with racer stripes to the brand's signature arse-out U-Power collaboration, Magliano challenged the traditional purposes of clothing, blending unexpected elements to rewrite sartorial codes.

Kartik Research: Honoring the Grit and Determination of Indian Designers

Kartik Research kicked off the Paris Fashion Week proceedings with a collection that paid homage to the resilience and self-belief of Indian designers. Brand founder Kartick Kumra worked with handwoven khadi fabrics, emphasizing the human effort that goes into their creation. The collection, which included loose-fitting tailoring and patchwork workwear pieces, was further elevated by a collaboration with Converse, where the team traveled to Bagru, Rajasthan, to work with hand block printers. This exceptional showcase of Indian textiles, embroidery, and natural dyes, combined with the Converse collab, made Kartik Research a standout presentation.

Burc Akyol: Exploring the Tensions of Personal Identity

Burc Akyol's Spring/Summer 2025 collection held a particularly significant meaning for the designer. Following his civil union with his long-term partner, Akyol grappled with the question of whether he would have to bid farewell to his authentic self. This tension was reflected in the collection, where couture-like draping was seen across silk dresses, yet confined by boxy tailoring. The garments served as a representation of the delicate balance between rigidity and fluidity, mirroring Akyol's personal journey.

Feng Chen Wang: Elevating Utility with Handcrafted Ceramics

Feng Chen Wang's Spring/Summer 2025 collection saw the designer exploring ancient artefacts and incorporating handcrafted ceramics into her material repertoire. Muted tailoring in khaki and grey hues was complemented by utilitarian bomber jackets, as Feng Chen Wang wove these unique handcrafted elements into an elevated collection. The standout feature of the show was the sculpture-like shoe platforms that hugged paint-cracked UGG Tasman slippers, blending the unexpected with the avant-garde.

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro: Bringing the Party to the Runway

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro brought a touch of playfulness to Paris Fashion Week with its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Surprise singers were dotted throughout the crowd, belting out iconic hits, while the runway showcased the brand's signature oversized silhouettes, including MA-1 bombers and denim jackets crafted entirely from front panels. The collection also debuted new "SCOTT" and "LARRY" sneaker models, and the whimsical touch was further amplified by ice cream cone and rubber duck kitten heels.

Y-3: Fusing Adidas' Technical Innovation with Yohji Yamamoto's Avant-Garde Vision

Y-3 once again delivered its signature fusion of Adidas' technical prowess and Yohji Yamamoto's masterful tailoring. The collection featured jackets with trailing threads that leaned into Yamamoto's avant-garde aesthetic, while the brand's collaboration with the official pitch jersey of the Japan Football Association added a touch of sportiness. The reveal of the Y-3 Regu sneaker, an astroturf-adjacent design, and the inclusion of notable figures like skater Marcos Montoya, footballers Naomi Feller, Fuka Nagano, and Joel Chima Fujita, and artist Gabriel Moses, further cemented Y-3's position as a trailblazer in the intersection of fashion and athletics.

sacai: Redefining Hybridity and Craftsmanship

On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Chitose Abe's sacai presented its signature hybrid reinterpretations, captivating the audience once again. The collection featured tailored jackets with billowing shoulders and cargo pockets applied to suits and skirts, showcasing the brand's disruptive design approach. The patchwork-esque fusion of colors across tops and bottoms, combined with models carrying books under their arms, injected a bookish cool into the proceedings. sacai's latest collaboration with Levi's further demonstrated the label's ability to blend heritage and craftsmanship with a modern, innovative sensibility.

Wooyoungmi: Exploring the American-Born Korean Identity

For Spring/Summer 2025, Wooyoungmi delved into the cross-cultural relationship between Korea and the United States, exploring the concept of the "American-born Korean" (ABK). This was reflected in the collection's yuppie-style tailoring, as well as the inclusion of So-Cal-tinged knitted surfer beanies and knotted mixed-material trainers. A standout feature was the return of backpacks to the Wooyoungmi runway, catering to the practical needs of fashion enthusiasts navigating the bustling schedule of Fashion Week.

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