Trailblazers of the Offal Renaissance: How St. John Revolutionized British Cuisine

In 1994, as the culinary landscape of Britain was dominated by prime cuts and haute cuisine, a restaurant named St. John opened its doors in London's East End, challenging the status quo. Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver, the visionaries behind this establishment, set out to revive the oft-forgotten world of offal, transforming perceptions and paving the way for a new era of adventurous dining.

Championing the Forgotten Delights of the Whole Animal

Reclaiming the Offal Tradition

The opening of St. John marked a significant turning point in the trajectory of British cuisine. At a time when the country's tripe shops were dwindling, Henderson and Gulliver boldly embraced the forgotten art of utilizing the entire animal, from nose to tail. Their menu showcased a range of offal dishes, from jellied tripe to pea and pig's ear soup, challenging the widespread preference for prime cuts and delicacies. This approach, as described by chef Tom Harris, was a "fuck you to all that was haute," a defiant stance against the culinary establishment.

Changing the Way We Eat

The influence of St. John's "unmistakable idiom" has been far-reaching, as acknowledged by the Good Food Guide in 2011. Today, adventurous restaurants across the country proudly serve dishes that echo the spirit of St. John, from duck neck sausage in Yorkshire to beef offal ragu in London. This shift in culinary attitudes can be attributed to Henderson's belief that it is "disingenuous" not to embrace the entire animal and its "delights, textural and flavoursome, beyond the fillet." This philosophy has become deeply embedded within the kitchen culture, transforming the way chefs approach their craft.

Elevating the Humble and the Overlooked

St. John's influence extends beyond the realm of offal. The restaurant's pared-back approach to dish design, eschewing elaborate garnishes and presentation in favor of simplicity, has also left an indelible mark on the industry. By elevating the humble and the overlooked, St. John has inspired a generation of chefs to redefine what it means to create exceptional cuisine. The bone-marrow pie funnel, a technique that adds both structural support and flavour to the dish, is one such example of the restaurant's innovative thinking, influencing chefs across the country.

A Commitment to Provenance and Artisanal Skills

St. John's dedication to quality ingredients and artisanal skills has also been a driving force in shaping the modern culinary landscape. The restaurant's discreet approach to sourcing high-quality produce from suppliers like Linley Estate and Swaledale set a new standard for ingredient provenance, inspiring others to follow suit. Beyond that, St. John's commitment to in-house butchery, pickling, fermenting, and bread-making has elevated these once-overlooked skills, transforming them into essential components of the modern chef's toolkit.

The St. John Alumni Effect

The influence of St. John extends far beyond the confines of its own kitchen. The restaurant's alumni have gone on to open their own establishments, often imbued with the same unapologetic spirit and confidence that defined their time at St. John. From Elliot Hashtroudi's Camille in London to Lee Tiernan's boisterous FKABAM, the St. John ethos continues to reverberate through the industry, inspiring a new generation of chefs to carve their own unique paths.

Nurturing Talent and Fostering a Collaborative Culture

Alongside its culinary innovations, St. John has also become renowned for its enlightened approach to kitchen culture. The restaurant's commitment to providing a supportive environment, with no shouting, sensible hours, and appetizing staff meals, has earned it a reputation as a "true nurturer" among its former employees. This emphasis on caring for the people behind the scenes has been a key factor in the restaurant's enduring success and influence.

Pushing Boundaries and Challenging Conventions

St. John's impact extends far beyond the confines of British cuisine. The restaurant's growing international reputation, championed by the likes of Anthony Bourdain and David Chang, has seen it push the boundaries of what it means to be a modern British establishment. With plans to open a restaurant in Los Angeles and a pop-up in Brooklyn, St. John is poised to introduce its unique perspective to a global audience, challenging preconceptions and championing the virtues of offal and artisanal cooking.

Redefining Modern British Cuisine

While Fergus Henderson is often hailed as the father of modern British cooking, his approach is not solely rooted in tradition. Drawing inspiration from his upbringing on Marcella Hazan's Italian recipes, Henderson has sought to reinterpret British ingredients through a lens of Mediterranean simplicity. This fusion of cultural influences has resulted in a style of cooking that is "not modern British, it is permanent British" – a timeless and enduring approach that continues to inspire chefs today.

Championing Pork and Rare Breeds

St. John's pioneering use of cheaper, fatty cuts of pork, such as pork belly, helped to overcome the prejudice against this versatile protein that was once rare on top restaurant menus. Furthermore, the restaurant's early embrace of rare breed pork, such as old spot or middlewhite, helped to bolster the popularity and awareness of these unique, heritage-breed pigs.

Normalizing and Elevating the Humble

St. John's signature roast bone marrow and parsley salad has been a driving force in the normalization and elevation of this once-overlooked ingredient. The restaurant's influence can be seen in the increasing availability of bone marrow in mainstream supermarkets and the incorporation of this rich, decadent ingredient into a variety of dishes.

A Philosophical Treatise in Cookbook Form

The publication of Henderson's "Nose to Tail Eating" in 1999 transformed the way chefs and diners alike understood the culinary landscape. Blending chic design, ironic tone, intellectual curiosity, and mouthwatering appetites, the book served as a portal into the bohemian lifestyle embodied by St. John. Beyond mere recipes, the book encapsulated a "way of being in the world," a philosophical approach to food that would resonate with a new generation of culinary thinkers.

Reframing the Visual Language of Food

The visual representation of food at St. John has also left an indelible mark on the industry. The restaurant's collaborative work with photographer Jason Lowe pioneered a more intimate, personal, and provocative style of food photography, moving away from the carefully curated and styled images that had previously dominated the genre. This approach, which drew inspiration from art and film, anticipated a new era of food imagery that challenged traditional conventions.

Embracing Unconventional Locations and Sustainability

St. John's decision to open in the then-rundown, semi-industrial East London was a bold and maverick move, paving the way for the thriving restaurant scene that now exists in many unlikely urban locations. Beyond its pioneering spirit, the restaurant has also been a steadfast advocate for sustainability, with a commitment to utilizing the entire animal and reducing waste – principles that have become increasingly mainstream in the industry.

Elevating the Everyday and Popularizing Shared Dining

St. John's influence can be seen in the way it has elevated the mundane, applying culinary expertise to the seemingly ordinary, such as the restaurant's astonishing bacon sandwich. Additionally, the small plates and large sharing dishes served at St. John Bread & Wine foreshadowed the rise of the shared dining experience, a format that would later gain widespread popularity.

Redefining Restaurant Design and Fashion

The stripped-back, utilitarian aesthetic of St. John's interiors, with their white walls, industrial lights, and lack of music or art, was a dramatic departure from the industry norm. This purposeful approach to design has since been emulated and adapted by countless restaurants, becoming a hallmark of the modern dining experience. Beyond the physical space, St. John's founders, Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver, have also become fashion icons, their signature suits and "chore" jackets inspiring the "chefcore" trend that continues to captivate the culinary world.

Defying Conventional Recognition

St. John's impact on the industry has transcended the need for traditional accolades, as evidenced by the restaurant's ability to achieve "a non-commercial level of branding so unique" that it did not require Michelin's approval, as noted by the blogger Bonjwing Lee. The restaurant's influence has extended far beyond the stars and awards, becoming a cultural phenomenon that has shaped the way we think about and experience food.

Pioneering Linguistic Brevity and Culinary Collaborations

St. John's minimalist approach to menu descriptions, described as "terse, eccentric," has become a widely emulated style, reflecting the restaurant's commitment to linguistic brevity. Moreover, the restaurant's collaborative ventures, such as its winery, Boulevard Napoleon, and its partnerships with clothing brands, have further cemented its position as a trailblazer in the industry.

Cultivating a Love for Natural Wines and Bread

St. John's pioneering embrace of low-intervention, biodynamic wines and its commitment to in-house bread-making have played a pivotal role in shaping the culinary landscape. The restaurant's influence can be seen in the widespread adoption of natural wines and the growing popularity of artisanal bread-making, both of which have become integral components of the modern dining experience.

Reviving and Reimagining Historic Culinary Traditions

In keeping with its ethos of embracing the whole animal, St. John has also been instrumental in the revival and reinterpretation of historic culinary traditions. From reviving interest in ancient grains and brined meats to reintroducing classic British desserts like Eton mess and eccles cakes, the restaurant has demonstrated a deep respect for the past while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of contemporary cuisine.